Hair piece fabricating apparatus



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ABSTRACT: An improved apparatus and method for stitching a hair piece including the formation of alternate stitches. each alternate stitch including an elongated loop. the intermediate or interposed stitches locking the elongated legs defined by 'the severed loops to the matrix or base of the hair piece.

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Patented Oct. 13, 1970 7 Sheet INVENTOR. DANIEL LENOBLE ATTORNEY Patented Oct. 13, 19 70- Sheet 'JNHLJA 70R. DANIEL LENOBLE 2 9 57/704 lqrST/TCY/ ATTORNEY HAIR PIECE FABRICATING APPARATUS This invention is in the field of hair pieces, such as wigs, toupees and the like.

As is well known, the use of hair pieces is becoming increasingly popular and accepted.

Typically, hair pieces may be categorized as falling into two classes, namely, handmade and machine made. Handmade units generally comprise real or artificial hair attached to a porous base or matrix and more or less permanently secured thereto by any of a variety of knotting techniques. Todays handmade hair pieces provide a very natural appearance and are quite durable. However, handmadehair pieces have the obvious disadvantage of very high initial cost, in the order of several hundred or more dollars, because of the labor involved in their manufacture.

Machine made hair pieces, while they may initially provide an appearance roughly comparable to the handmade, have many drawbacks. Specifically, in many of the units, there is a high incidence of hair loss, due to the fact that the machine stitching or attaching operations are not effective permanently to root the hair to the matrix. The looser stitches, in the course of brushing, combing or normal wear, may become detached from the matrix. To compensate for this deficiency. resort has been made to means such as adhesives or high friction matrices, for example, rubber coated matrices or like expedients which more securely anchor the hair by means other than stitching.

While such expedients overcome the hair loss problem, they create still further problems, including wearer discomfort resulting from loss of porosity, excessive thickness and weight, loss of naturalness, etc.

This invention is an improvement over my US. Pat. No. 2,780,194 and may be summarized as comprising a chain stitching machine modified to form and feed chain stitches of first and second strands comprising, respectively, a locking strand and a hair simulator strand. In each alternate chain stitch, the loop defined by the hair simulator strand is elongated and thereafter severed, the hair strand in the stitches between the alternate stitches, and each stitch of the locking strand being formed in a normal manner. The elongated loops of the hair simulator strand are severed to define the hair ends.

In accordance with a preferred embodiment of the invention, the locking strand is formed of an elastic thread or yarn. When such a thread or yarn is used in. conjunction with a stretchable matrix, a highly desirable stretch hair piece construction is achieved. The stretchability is to be contrasted with conventional stitching operations wherein the rows of hair attaching stitches remove any extensability from the wig matrix.

In the resultant hair piece, the hair strands are securely and permanently affixed to the matrix with a degree of attachment fully comparable to that achieved in the finest hand weaving or hand stitching techniques. The secure attachment of the hair strands is achieved without the necessity for using adhesives or elastomeric-covered matrices or like techniques which decrease the porosity and increase the weight and discomfort of the hair piece. Where a high friction elastic locking yarn is used, the connection is further augmented.

It is therefore an object of this invention to provide an improved apparatus and method of mechanically forming a hair piece.

A further object of the invention is the provision of an apparatus of the type described which results in the formation of a low cost, highly porous, natural looking and comfortable hair piece. 7

It is a further object of the invention to provide a method of forming a hair piece of the type described.

To attain these objects and'such further objects as may appear herein or be hereinafter pointed out, reference is made to the accompanying drawings, forming a part hereof, in which:

FIG. 1 is a side elevational view of a hair piece manufacturing apparatus of the type described, a

FIG. 6 is a magnified sectional view through a segment of the finished hair piece, showing details of the stitches formed.

Referring now to FIG. 1, there is shown an essentially conventional chain stitching device such as a sewing machine 10, having a presser foot 11 and a presser plate 12.

A number of sewing machines may be readily adapted for use with the device of the present invention, an appropriate machine being manufactured by the Puritan Luggage Machine Co. of Boston, Massachusetts, which machine illustratively forms a chain stitch. Since the operation of the sewing machine, per se, is in all respects conventional and since a variety of machines may be equally adapted for use in the present hair piece fabricating apparatus, the description of the machine will be limited to a minimum consonant with an understanding of the invention.

The machine 10 includes a vertically and horizontally shiftable needle arm 13 which may carry one or more needles 14 of the hook eye type having open thread receiver eyes 15. It will be understood that other types of needles may be employed, e.g., latch type, provided that they are capable of receiving threads directed laterally against the sides of the needle. The machine is preferably of a multineedle type, eg, a

- plurality of needles (see FIG. 1 may be carried by the needle arm 13 to effect parallel rows of chain stitches, although for simplicity of illustration'only one needle has been illustrated in connection with the stitch forming operation.

In the usual manner, the strands to be sewn (in this instance, two for each needle) are fed through upper and lower guides 16, 17 respectively, through upper and lower feed stations l8, 19, respectively, mounted on the master thread guide shaft 20.

As is well known, the presser foot 11 and presser plate 12 have registering open ended slots formed therein for passage of the needle. During eachdownward cycle of the needle arm 13, the upper strand H and the lower strand L which is preferably formed of a stretchable or elastic yarn,'are fed to the open hook eye of the needle and are pulled downward through the matrix material M which is sandwiched between thepresser foot 11 and the presser plate 12.

As is well known, the master thread guide shaft 20 is pivoted by the internal mechanism of the sewing machine soas to dispose upper and lower strands H and L in the path of the downwardly moving needles. The strands, namely hair simulator strand H and a locking strand L emanate from remotely disposed bobbin supplies (not shown),

Further and conventionally, the horizontal shifting movement of the needleswhen they extend through the matrix, advance the matrix a small increment from right to left as viewed in FIGS. 2' to 4 after each oscillation of the sewing machine needle, so as to provide the desired continuous row of stitching.

Mechanism is provided for forming elongated loops of alternate stitches of the hair simulator strand H and for severing such elongated loops. This elongating and severing mechanism 21, as best seen in FIGS. 1 and 5, comprises a sprocket 22 affixed to the main drive shaft 23 of the sewing machine, thus to assure a synchronized connection between the sewing machine and the elongating and severing mechanism.

A gear reduction assembly 24 has an input shaft 25 which carries sprocket 26, which sprocket is drivingly connected to the sprocket 22 by drive chain 27.- A worm 28, FIG; 1, is

meshed with gear 29 affixed to shaft 30 journaled for rotation in the speed reduction assembly 24 for rotation about a vertical axis. The shaft 30 carries a boss 31, to which puller disc 32 is connected, as by machine screws 33. e

The disc 32' is provided'with a series (three being illustrated) of arcuate slots 34 adjacent the periphery. The arcuate slots are spaced to register sequentially with the path of the reciprocating needle as the disc 32 is rotated.

An adjustable stationary cutter arm 35, mounted beneath the gear reduction assembly 24, carries adjacent its outer end 36 a floating cutter blade assembly 37. The blade assembly comprises a pair of vertically directed guide posts 38 and a sharpened cutter blade 39, having spaced apertures closely corresponding with and mounted for vertical'movementon the guide posts'38. A pair of coil springs 40 are compressed between a fixed head assembly 41 extending between the posts 38 and the blade 39. As best shown in FIG. 5. the blade overlies the arcuate slots 34 and wipingly engages the upper surface 42 ofthe disc 32.

The gear drive assembly 24 is carefully synchronized with respect to the cycle of operation ofthe sewing machine needle or needles [4 so that the alternate or second stitch formed by the sewing machine apparatus will be completed while any one of the arcuate slots 34 is in registry with the needle path. in other words, the arcuate slots 34 are spaced to register with the needle path, and the disc 32 is rotated to scan said slots sequentially across said needle path. The synchronization of the disc and needle is such that said second stitches are formed by the needle being directed upwardly through a slot and on its return stroke drawing the hair simulator strand H and the lock strand L back through the same slot, to form a conventional chain stitch in which all the loop components or configurations are drawn tightly against the opposite sides of the matrix. A second stitch is shown in greatly enlarged form in FIG. 6 and labeled second stitch".

Stitches of the first type, e.g., the stitches formed following and preceding the formation of second stitches, are effected by the needle 14 drawing the hair simulator strand H through one slot 34, with the subsequent upper pass of the needle being effected through the next following slot 34.

As will be readily apparent from the drawings, and particularly FlGS. 2 to 4, since the guide 19 for the lower strand is located beneath the level of the rotating disc 32, the formation of stitches of the first type will in no way effect any change in the type of stitch formed with the locking strand L. However, as will be understood from the foregoing, in stitches ofthe first type, the hair simulator strand H will be pulled through the slots 34 at a position closely adjacent the trailing edge or puller shoulders 43 of the slots 34. As a result, the puller shoulders 43 will engage the hair simulator strand H and form an elongated loop of the strand, which loop includes an upper leg 44 and a lower leg 45.

The loop is progressively drawn by the rotating disc toward the cutter blade 39 and, following completion of the stitch including the elongated loop, the disc, operating in synchronism with the needle, will sever the connection between the legs 44, 45, thus to define separate strand sections 44a, 45b (see FIG. 6).

After formation of a stitch of the first type, it will be understood that the disc will have rotated such that the next reciprocation of the needle will be effected at a point which slightly trails a lead edge 46 of one of the slots 34. By entering adjacent a lead edge, it is possible to complete the stitch entirely within the given slot in the manner previously set forth.

Details of the formation of the first stitches may be best understood by reference to FIGS. 2 to 4. in FIG. 2, the hair strand H has been pulled downwardly through a slot 34 of the disc and the needle 14 has gripped lock strand L. In FIG. 3 it is seen that with the continued downward movement of the needle, the continued rotary movement of the disc has caused the formation of a loop of the hair strand H only, which loop progressively increases in size. In FIG. 4, the stitch incorporating the elongated loop has been completed, the needle is ready to rise again to form a stitch of the second type, and the elongated loop is about to be severed by the blade 39.

Referring now to FIG. 6, there is shown in detail, in greatly magnified form, the configuration of stitches formed by the device.

As will be immediately apparent from viewing FIG. 6, if all stitches formed were of the first type, there would be relatively little anchoring force holding the elongated legs 44a, 45a, and a pull against such legs would, in time, cause the entire strand to be removed from the matrix M. Obviously, such a pull is incurred in the course of combing, brushing or otherwise treating the hair piece. However, by reason of the use of the locking strand L, the attachment of the stitches of the first type is greatly augmented due to the intertwining of these strands and the fact that the lock strand forms an unbroken line of stitches. Further. the fact that the hair simulator strand as well as the locking strand are conventionally stitched in the course of formation of the second stitch. there is a cumulative anchoring effect which assures a permanent bonding in position of the hair strands.

Where a stretchable hair piece is desired. it is conventional to employ a porous stretchable matrix. in accordance with my invention, the use of an elastic material such as a rubber or covered rubber locking strand L enables a very high degree of stretching to be effected since a slight movement of the severed hair ends relative to the matrix is permitted, while the elastic yarn L of course does not in any way encumber the ability of the hair piece to stretch. In contrast. where known chain stitching methods are employed, the use ofa stretchable matrix per se is not enough to provide a stretchable hair piece since the chain stitches themselves reduce the stretchability of the matrix. The combination of alternate severed hair strands plus an elastic locking strand provides a unique hair piece which will readily conform to the head of the wearer.

From the foregoing it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that variations may be made on the concepts herein disclosed without departing from the spirit of the invention. Particularly, while it has been found to be preferred to define a loop with every other stitch, there may be instances in which the use of other than a one to one ratio may be advisable. Accordingly, the word -alternate" as used herein and in the claims is to be given a broad connotation, to encompass such variation.

From the foregoing it will be further evident that there is shown an apparatus for forming a hair piece mechanically wherein all of the hair elements are firmly rooted in position without the necessity for employing an elastomeric matrix or the use of adhesives.

Further, by the novel apparatus and method of the present invention, there is provided a hair piece having comparable characteristics to a hand knotted accessory at a substantially lower cost.

While the preferred embodiment of my invention employs both a hair simulator strand and locking yam with the hair simulator strand, of alternate stitches only, elongated, it will be appreciated that certain of the benefits of my invention may be realized by utilizing the alternate stitch technique alone without employing a locking yarn. Similarly, where a locking yarn is used it is possible to secure adequate anchorage in a hair piece in which each hair simulator strand is elongated and severed. The claims are accordingly to be broadly construed taking the noted variations into account.

As many changes could be made in the above construction, apparatus, article and method, and many apparently widely different embodiments of this invention could be made without departing from the scope of the claims, it is intended that all matter contained in the above description shall be interpreted as illustrative and not in a limiting sense.

lclaim:

1. Apparatus for fabricating a hair piece on a fabric matrix comprising a chain stitching machine having a presser foot and a reciprocating needle with a hook eye, feed means for feeding a continuous hair simulator strand to said eye once during each reciprocation of said needle, puller means movable between the presser foot and said eye for elongating the strand disposed between said eye and said feed means and synchronizing means for operating said puller means during each alternate reciprocation of said needle wherein only one end of each chain stitch is exposed to the exterior.

2. A device in accordance with claim 1 and including second feed means for feeding a lock strand to said eye during each reciprocation of said needle, said puller means being clear of the path between said presser foot and second feed means.

3. A device in accordance with claim 2 wherein said puller means comprises a slotted disc and said synchronizer means comprises a drive means powered by said sewing machine for rotating said disc in timed relation to said needle.

4. A device in accordance with claim 3 and including cutter means cooperating with said disc for cutting said elongated portion of said strand after both ends of said elongated portion have passed beneath said presser foot.

5. Apparatus for fabricating a hair piece on a basic fabric matrix comprising a chain stitching machine having a presser foot and a reciprocating needle with a hook eye, first and second feed means for feeding a lock strand and a hair simulator strand, respectively, to said eye during each reciprocal cycle of said needle, and puller means cyclically shiftable between said presser foot and said second feed means for elongating said hair simulator portion between said foot and second feed means during each alternate reciprocation of said needle, said puller means being clear of said path during the reciprocations between said alternate reciprocations.

6. A device in accordance with claim 5 wherein said puller means comprises a disc having elongated, arcuate slot means terminating in a trailing puller shoulder and disc drive means for rotating said disc in synchronism with said needle, said drive means being timed to form each alternate stitch'with components of said second strand in leading and trailing relation of said puller shoulder, all portions of the stitches between said alternate stitches being formed through the same slot means in leading position of said puller shoulder.

7, Apparatus for fabricating a hair piece on a basic fabric matrix comprising a chain stitching machine having a presser foot and a reciprocating needle with a hook eye, first and second feed means for feeding a lock strand and a hair simulator strand, respectively, to said eye during each reciprocal cycle of said needle, and puller means cyclically shiftable between said presser foot and said second feed means for elongating said hair simulator portion between said foot and second feed means. and means for severing said elongated hair simulator portion. 

